Two product logics sit under this category. First, jacketed “hose” lines for façades and canopies: flexible extrusions with a diffused window that read as a continuous band, supplied as ready-to-run lengths or linkable segments. Second, slim tape-style runs for shelves, counters, and window props where you need tight bends and small profiles. Typical watt densities span 4–10 W/m; light levels land roughly 300–1 000 lm/m depending on optics and CCT. Colour sets include 1800–2100 K for candle-warm ambience, 2300–2700 K classic warm, and 3000–4000 K where merchandise colour fidelity matters. Cut points are usually 25/50/100 mm—check the print on the jacket before trimming.
Choose between dot-free “neon” hoses (continuous phosphor/COB under a diffuser) and classic point-sparkle ropes (discrete LEDs). LED densities of 60/120/180 LEDs/m control uniformity; deep diffusers erase pixels at ≤10 W/m without throwing away too many lumens. Jackets are PVC or silicone; outdoor lines use UV-stable compounds with molded joints. Minimum bend radius is printed on the tag—respect side-bend vs top-bend or you’ll kink the light path. Where shelving needs small profiles and tight radii, the term star trading flexible light strips is what you’re after—run them in aluminium channels for thermal headroom and straight sight lines.
Indoors, you’ll see 5–10 m kits with inline switches or timers; outdoors, linkable segments build 20–100 m façades from one feed within the published max-link limit. Low-voltage ecosystems (24/31 V SELV) are the safest pick for public touch zones and hotel terraces; 220–240 V “ready-plug” sets simplify long runs on private façades. Expect molded eyelets or clip points every 0.5–1.0 m; the tag lists permissible spans so catenaries don’t belly.
SELV systems pair with class II drivers; dim via PWM, 1–10 V, or DALI at the driver. Keep voltage drop tame: inject both ends or every 10–15 m on 24/31 V trunks so the last 5 m doesn’t read darker. 230 V hose sets can work on trailing-edge channels when the datasheet says so; many plug-packs are fixed-output—place them on timed circuits instead of forcing dimming. On long façades, plan feed points near structure; rubber H05RN-F leads handle outdoor routing, but always leave drip loops below every connector.
Recessed, surface, and corner profiles in 1/2/3 m bars keep runs straight and protect the optics. Opal covers calm luminance in close sightlines; micro-prismatic lenses preserve output over desks. Clip spacing every 40–60 cm prevents waveform in heat; use thermally conductive tape onto anodised aluminium—never bare plaster. Publish cut lengths on the drawing (e.g., 6× 970 mm + 2× 540 mm) so the warehouse kits the correct joiners and end-caps.
Cluster density sells the scene. For back-bars and props, use higher LED counts or COB to avoid hot spots on glossy bottles and metallics. Warm tints (1800–2300 K) flatter timber and brass; neutral 3000–3500 K keeps fabrics honest near mirrors. If cameras are in play, ask for flicker metrics (PstLM ≤ 1.0, SVM ≤ 0.4) and keep PWM frequency high through the chosen driver.
Ingress classes line up by family: IP20 for rooms, IP44 for porches/canopies, IP65/67 for weather-exposed runs. Silicone jackets ride cold better than PVC; operating windows around −20…+40 °C are typical. Where the spec mentions star trading led hose lights, pick the IP65 rubber lines with molded strain relief and stainless clips; feed both ends on spans over ~25–30 m to hide volt-drop dimming. Coastal sites benefit from silicone gaskets and UV-stable blacks or whites; always seat connectors fully—IP ratings assume a complete mate.
Write the line so cartons land complete: family, length, CCT, watt/m, IP, voltage/driver, connector system, max-link per feed, and the accessory set (clips, splitters, extensions). Example: “31 V SELV Hose, 10 m, 2300 K, 7 W/m, IP65, max-link 60 m, 20× façade clips, 1× mid-feed.” If you need spares and fixings, search under star trading lighting accessories strip—end-caps, joiners, feeds, and gaskets are the first items crews ask for.